Remember also that in the military, grunts are told (ie, ordered) to clean their weapons on a regular basis. Remember, stuff supplied to the US Government is lowest-cost bidder. Those finishes aren’t restored by adding oil, but rather by buffing with a very fine buffing compound.ĬLP is OK, but just that – OK. You’ll need only a few drops of the oil on your fingertips and you rub it into the stock in a thin, uniform film and then allow to stand overnight in a dust-free area to dry.ĭon’t use oils on the high-finish glossy acrylic stock finishes like Brownings and such. jar would last the average gun owner nearly forever. You can obtain Lin-speed directly from the maker or from Brownells. It is used by many high-end custom stockmakers and gunmakers on stocks that cost more than a half-dozen Garands put together. You can either cut the linseed oil with some mineral spirits, or go seek out a product a lot of gunsmiths and gunmakers (who make stocks, not just shine them up) use called “Lin-speed Oil.” It’s linseed oil that has some carriers and thinners in it to speed drying. Like days and days, perhaps even weeks in cooler temps. Stock preservation: Boiled linseed oil is indeed the stuff to preserve wood… but it can take forever to dry to a non-tacky finish on a stock in some areas of the country. “Food grade” doesn’t mean that you eat it, but that it can be thought of as being “generally safe” to use, unlike many of the oils based on petroleum distillates.Ģ. For dry, dusty areas with fine blowing dust (much of the Great Basin region of the US, or southwest TX/NM/AZ), look into graphite or moly-based dry film lubes.įor people who want something non-toxic and food grade, examine Ballistol and Froglube. It works OK for most everything, especially semi-autos where I’m going to run them sopping wet. I’ve started testing MilTec-1, have not used FrogLube (about which I’ve heard rather lofty claims).įor guns that I use or lube often, I make my own “bulk lube” from ATF (Mercon-III will work fine), synthetic motor oil, STP and Marvel Mystery Oil. Those boys at Boeing ain’t idiots.įor lubrication, think in terms of lubes that won’t run off or evaporate in high heat, are still lubricating (and not gumming up or congealing) at -30F. In general, I like Boeing’s lubricants, whether we’re talking about Boelube for tapping/drilling/threading or Boeshield. Boeshield is good because it won’t act as a solvent on plastics, varnishes, etc. These will have to be removed when you want to use the gun, but they will prevent rust in even the most humid and salty environments if applied correctly. RIG gun grease, Cosmoline, LPS-3, Boeshield T-9 are all good rust prevention products in areas with high humidity and salt water exposure. When thinking of lubes and rust prevention, it’s best for people in high-rust areas (the high humidity south, or coastal areas near salt water) to think of lubrication and rust prevention as two distinct issues and use two different products on guns that won’t be shot/cleaned/lubricated on a frequent basis.
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